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The North Face of the Eiger was long notorious as the most
dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had claimed the lives
of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams - one German,
the other British-American - aimed to climb it by a new direct
route. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each
other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The
race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British-American team and
intended to make an Alpine-style dash for the summit as soon as
weather conditions allowed. The Germans, with an eight-man team,
planned a relentless Himalayan-style ascent, whatever the weather.
The authors were key participants as the dramatic events unfolded.
Award-winning writer Peter Gillman, then twenty-three, was
reporting for the Telegraph, talking to the climbers by radio and
watching their monumental struggles from telescopes at the Kleine
Scheidegg hotel. Renowned Scottish climber Dougal Haston was a
member of Harlin's team, forging the way up crucial pitches on the
storm-battered mountain. Chris Bonington began as official
photographer but then played a vital role in the ascent. Eiger
Direct, first published in 1966, is a story of risk and resilience
as the climbers face storms, frostbite and tragedy in their quest
to reach the summit. This edition features a new introduction by
Peter Gillman.
`If I could choose a place to die, it would be in the mountains.’
Clouds from Both Sides is the autobiography of Julie Tullis, the
first British woman to climb an 8,000-metre peak – Broad Peak –
and the first to reach the summit of K2, the world’s
second-highest mountain. A truly remarkable woman, Julie describes
her early days in a London disrupted by World War II; her family
life, climbing, teaching and living by the sandstone outcrops of
High Rocks and Harrison’s Rocks in Tunbridge Wells, Kent; and her
experience as a high-level mountaineer and filmmaker. Tullis
demonstrates her determination and self-discipline through training
to black-belt standard in both judo and aikido, and never allows
financial concerns to keep her away from the high mountains – a
place where she felt at peace. Filled with vivid accounts of
frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness and exhilaration alongside
her climbing partner Kurt Diemberger, Clouds from Both Sides takes
us to Yosemite, Nanga Parbat, Everest and K2. First published in
1986 before her death, and with an additional chapter written by
Peter Gillman documenting Tullis’s final, fated expedition to K2,
this story is as relevant and awe inspiring today as it ever was.
Tullis’s achievements are timeless and her attitudes and opinions
far ahead of their time. Clouds from Both Sides is a tribute to the
memory of an inspirational woman determined to strive for her
dreams, an extraordinary account of her adventures and an
exhilarating testament to her courage.
In 1924, George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine disappeared
during a valiant bid to reach the world's highest summit. In May
1999 Mallory's body was found, partly resolving the riddle of
whether they succeeded in their bid, 29 years ahead of Hillary and
Tenzing. Peter and Leni Gillman assess the motives and goals of
this inspirational yet complex figure, whose life was dominated by
his two conflicting passions: his love for his wife Ruth, and
Everest - forbidding, unclimbed, 'the wildest dream', as he called
it. Drawing on family letters and helped by surviving members of
the family, Peter and Leni Gillman present a powerful and affecting
portrait of a man torn between competing desires, and the fatal
choice he ultimately made.
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